Atimo: a taste of sunny Italy

January's arrival will mark the third anniversary of the opening of Atimo, the brainchild of Nicolas Doulos (kitchen) and Steve Stamoulos (administration). Even though both owners have Greek family names, the fine Italian restaurant speaks volumes about Doulos' family (his wife and mother-in-law are Italian and have passed on their recipes and their know-how) and the versatility of Mediterranean cooking, despite the differences between Greek and Italian cuisine. Didn't you know that behind every great man is a woman? Or in this case, two women? At Atimo, you won't find any Olive Garden pizza or spaghetti bolognese, but rather, delicious and fresh dishes selected for their gustative qualities, and not for their provenance. For instance, the endives they use come from Belgium Ð because they are less bitter than those grown here in Quebec. We started with an antipasto Ð an appetizer, in fact Ð of baguette bread dipped in oil and balsamic vinegar. What a way to start! We moved on to a second appetizer of zucchini chips with tzatziki sauce (A Greek specialty) to accompany them. Our approval was unanimous. The plate came garnished with a grilled mushroom and pepper with goat cheese and topped with a balsamic reduction ($12.95) and was also a delight. For main dishes, the chef recommended his scalopinni di vitello Maria-Pia ($21.95), a fine tender veal scallopine covered in fresh asparagus and mozzarella cheese and a delicious butter-and-white-wine sauce accompanied by linguine rosee, whose pale colour belied a spicy and revelatory flavour. It would seem the chef has a certain level of affection for Belgium, where mussels and fries are king, because he next proposed mussels marinara from Prince Edward Island. They are served with house fries, made from traditional potatoes and sweetened Ð which rival Belgian fries for quality, taste and consistency. For $12.95, the cost-return ratio is tipped to the customer, certainly. The penne salmon verde ($10.95) served with leeks, olive oil and butter also turned out to be a rich and delicious dish. The restaurant's dŽcor is warm and inviting, with a contemporary feel due to the generous space between tables. Menu items for the lunchtime table d'hote vary from $10.95 to $21.95 and come with soup, desert and coffee included, and a small, but diverse wine list. Atimo is located at 413 Bourke Ave. in Dorval, at Bouchard. Parking is free and generally available, and in nice weather, Atimo has a small terrace available to diners. Atimo is open Monday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. For more information, call Atimo at 514-631-5654 or visit them online at www.atimo.ca. (Translated by Marc Lalonde)